The small allen screw that releases the bolt securing the brake will not budge. It's in there so tight, that I'm going to strip the head trying to get it out, already starting to grind the interior hex down and losing the ability to get a secure fit for the allen wrench.
What am I supposed to do now? I've tried WD-40 on the allen screw and everything. It was just secured too tightly. This is the third allen screen that's I've come across that was secured to tightly at the factory. Two of the brake plat screws were also fastened so tight, I couldn't get them off without damaging the hex head. I had to remove them with a drill bit for pulling stripped screws, but this brake screw is in a spot that I don't think I can drill out. Nor do I want to lose that particular screws as it's very small and made for that spot.
I don't understand how I'm supposed to make this upgrade. I feel like I just wasted my money on the brake kit.
I hope you found a way to loosen the screw.
If not, heat the area with an electric hair dryer. The metals are different and will heat at different rates, usually allowing the screw to be loosened. Good luck.
The small allen screw that releases the bolt securing the brake will not budge. It's in there so tight, that I'm going to strip the head trying to get it out, already starting to grind the interior hex down and losing the ability to get a secure fit for the allen wrench.
What am I supposed to do now? I've tried WD-40 on the allen screw and everything. It was just secured too tightly. This is the third allen screen that's I've come across that was secured to tightly at the factory. Two of the brake plat screws were also fastened so tight, I couldn't get them off without damaging the hex head. I had to remove them with a drill bit for pulling stripped screws, but this brake screw is in a spot that I don't think I can drill out. Nor do I want to lose that particular screws as it's very small and made for that spot.
I don't understand how I'm supposed to make this upgrade. I feel like I just wasted my money on the brake kit.
The same problem for me, impossible to use the brake performance kit because the screw that securing the brake is too tight. Now the inside head of the screw is damaged and it 's becomed impossible tobe loosened.
If a fanatec crew member can give a solution, it will be great !
Yeah. I installed the brake kit mod and damper mod. Inserted back my cable. I saw smoke.. Bye circuitboard. Have send email to Fanatec support, but I am sad and worried. Manual could be much much better. Like telling to open the case of the cicruitboard, disconnect the rumble wire, etc.
The small allen screw that releases the bolt securing the brake will not budge. It's in there so tight, that I'm going to strip the head trying to get it out, already starting to grind the interior hex down and losing the ability to get a secure fit for the allen wrench.
What am I supposed to do now? I've tried WD-40 on the allen screw and everything. It was just secured too tightly. This is the third allen screen that's I've come across that was secured to tightly at the factory. Two of the brake plat screws were also fastened so tight, I couldn't get them off without damaging the hex head. I had to remove them with a drill bit for pulling stripped screws, but this brake screw is in a spot that I don't think I can drill out. Nor do I want to lose that particular screws as it's very small and made for that spot.
I don't understand how I'm supposed to make this upgrade. I feel like I just wasted my money on the brake kit.
The same problem for me, impossible to use the brake performance kit because the screw that securing the brake is too tight. Now the inside head of the screw is damaged and it 's becomed impossible tobe loosened.
If a fanatec crew member can give a solution, it will be great !
Same issue here. Already damaged some screws, now this one won't come loose either. So frustrating.... Why so tight? The hairdryer-tip does not work either unfortunetly.... Can't install the bpk now.
We were finally able to ship the Brake Performance Kit for our ClubSport Pedals V3.
It
makes your pedals more stiff than the stiffest settings you can reach
with your PU foams and also allow a different feeling as you can combine
PU foam and Elastomer springs for some travel in the beginning and then
super stiff resistance for braking. This emulates a race car brake like
you find in F1 or LMP. you will brake using only muscle memory instead
of memorizing the foot position and this can make you faster.
This
kit is not there to replace the damper kit as the damper will add
hydraulic feel to it. And it is also not designed to fix any issues some
customers had with the smoothness of their V3 brake in the first
batches. Those customers should contact support and get a free PU foam
with better lubrication which will not need service.
The Brake Performance Kit
contains 4 different types of elastomer springs and a small PU foam
which will allow different spring settings. Green is harder than red and
both colours come in two diameters and the bigger the diameter the
stiffer the pedal.
Please note that there is a reason why we did
not ship the CSP V3 with the BPK as standard equipment as you will see
that the adjustment of the travel and stiffness cannot be made with the
pre-load screw anymore.
Let us know how you like the feeling of your modified brake pedal and what colour combo you use.
I just installed this kit after some difficulty. After inserting the foam piece, 1 red, and 1 green elastomer, I was unable to reattach the brake pedal due to absolutely no clearance between the shaft block and the brake pedal arm. I was sure to adjust the preload adjuster to the minimum setting but that was not enough. I had to shave off about 3/16 inch from the foam block to install the brake rod. There is absolutely no free play at all in the brake at this point. I think a better solution was to have made the elastomers and/or foam piece a little shorter and then allow the gamer to use the preload to add a little free play if desired. What have others experienced ? On a related note, I do have the damper kit installed but after rotating the damper shaft in both directions, I don't think that it is the root cause
The pressure broke my rumble wire and fried my PCB. Sir Zandi knows about this. I had to order a new wire/rumble and a PCB. Had to pay ofcourse. What I did was not to put the wire behind the pedal, but just outside it, so I could get the brake 'attached' again with the thin bolt without damaging the new wire.
It all could have done better, and I also told Zandi to update the manual. So people know you have to disconnect the white connection from the wire and then take out the wire from behind the pedal and then mod the brake. At last place the wire back and attack the white connection and wire again. Voila. That's how Zandi explained it and it should be in the manual.
So I guess this setscrew was installed by something not from this world?
Super-glued hex tool in and let it cure over night, immediately broke bond. 15 minute metal-metal epoxy I let stand for about 45 minutes. Set screw wouldn't budge. Epoxy eventually failed.
This set screw isn't budging at all.
The angle my drill will come in at is about 20*. I don't know if I want to risk that and don't think the set screw would come out at that angle. Do I RMA the v3i
So I guess this setscrew was installed by something not from this world?
Super-glued hex tool in and let it cure over night, immediately broke bond. 15 minute metal-metal epoxy I let stand for about 45 minutes. Set screw wouldn't budge. Epoxy eventually failed.
This set screw isn't budging at all.
The angle my drill will come in at is about 20*. I don't know if I want to risk that and don't think the set screw would come out at that angle. Do I RMA the v3i
Fanatec?
Definitely contact support. Use the red box on the right side of the homepage for the fastest response. You can also submit a standard support ticket but it’s slower.
I have a very strange problem since i got the v3's, ordered the whole package (v3's+BPK+Damper Kit), installed first the PUfoam (bottom of the cylinder) then tried various spring combos and at this point i think i have tried every combo. no matter what i tried brake input seems to have a jump input, from around 50% jumps instantly to 100%, if i am away from the rig for some hours and return back in the first 2-3 pedal pressings, signal jumps from 0-100%. also sometimes seems it needs calibration every few hours, and also i can feel a small sponge step when i am pressing the pedal EXTREMELY hard, sometimes after that sponge feeling, braking is almost good and other times input stucks at 20% without me pressing the brake.. for me feels like something in the spings is not working correctly, like they compress and then gradually as the time passes by they decompress slowly and then the pedal needs calibration again. So today i uninstalltd the small PU foam and left only the 2 green 13mm springs, setted the preload screw at 4 (without the PU foam you can max out the preload screw) and recalibrated. i THINK that now is much much much better but i am noy 100% sure because i need to put quite a few laps to be sure.
Could it be the PCB? If you know something about this please help, this is the only topic i found online that has so many info on BPK and it has already helped me a lot.
I have a very strange problem since i got the v3's, ordered the whole package (v3's+BPK+Damper Kit), installed first the PUfoam (bottom of the cylinder) then tried various spring combos and at this point i think i have tried every combo. no matter what i tried brake input seems to have a jump input, from around 50% jumps instantly to 100%, if i am away from the rig for some hours and return back in the first 2-3 pedal pressings, signal jumps from 0-100%. also sometimes seems it needs calibration every few hours, and also i can feel a small sponge step when i am pressing the pedal EXTREMELY hard, sometimes after that sponge feeling, braking is almost good and other times input stucks at 20% without me pressing the brake.. for me feels like something in the spings is not working correctly, like they compress and then gradually as the time passes by they decompress slowly and then the pedal needs calibration again. So today i uninstalltd the small PU foam and left only the 2 green 13mm springs, setted the preload screw at 4 (without the PU foam you can max out the preload screw) and recalibrated. i THINK that now is much much much better but i am noy 100% sure because i need to put quite a few laps to be sure.
Could it be the PCB? If you know something about this please help, this is the only topic i found online that has so many info on BPK and it has already helped me a lot.
If you’re brake is jumping that much I’d contact support. Use the red box on the right side of the homepage for the fastest response. Or start a standard support ticket.
No need to contact support on this one. Try reading the manual first. It says, with every turn of the brake stiffness rotary, whether it's on the damper kit or brake itself, you need to recalibrate the brakes. Have you even updated the pedals? And be sure to detach the RJ12 connector from the base when performing update or calibration, or leave base set to OFF
yes i have updated like 4 times. what do you mean disconnect the RJ12? you mean the brake RJ12? is it possible to recalibrate them with the RJ12 being disconnected? also what do you mean "leave base to OFF"? Thanks
The connector from pedals to base has to be pulled out if you update AND calibrate the pedals IF the base is switched ON. If you didn't connect the pedals to the base, then there's no need to worry about it.
After months of troubleshooting fanatec and me finally found the issue, cylinder was stuck from production in side the housing and i wasn't moving as it should. Fanatec sent me a new part and it's working perfect now. except from one thing. i think it is too easy to reach 100% brake input. I am using 2X13mm green elastomers, damper kit at 2, preload screw at 0 (i like the travel of the pedal) and 100% force factor in CP, still it is so easy for me to reach 100% input that doesn't make sense. i even had to set brake factor in iracing at 5.00 which is wrong for LC pedals and still it is easy for me to reach 100%. it's like LC sensor is 45kg instead of 90kg. Manual calibration didn't help at all.
any clues if this is normal or how i could make it harder? maybe mess somehow with the BPK?
Comments
Could it be the PCB?
If you know something about this please help, this is the only topic i found online that has so many info on BPK and it has already helped me a lot.
Thanks
I am using 2X13mm green elastomers, damper kit at 2, preload screw at 0 (i like the travel of the pedal) and 100% force factor in CP, still it is so easy for me to reach 100% input that doesn't make sense. i even had to set brake factor in iracing at 5.00 which is wrong for LC pedals and still it is easy for me to reach 100%. it's like LC sensor is 45kg instead of 90kg. Manual calibration didn't help at all.
any clues if this is normal or how i could make it harder? maybe mess somehow with the BPK?