I now got my CSW 2.5 and i wonder if those recommended settings are still "recommendable". For example: SEN 900° doesn't work for me, because the Wheel in iRacing and the Rim do not align with each other (even after Calibration). I need to put in 865° to have full alignment across the range.
I have a weird issue with my DD2 base, in any nascar car when I'm slowing down below 40 km/h theres huge bumo effect in wheel like i woudl hit something. It is happening only in nasacr cars, no issue in gt3 or any other "normal" car. Can you gyus please advise. I use recomended settings for DD2.
So yesterday I did some testing with various cars and same track on iRacing regarding the DD2 ffb setting and the in game ffb setting, so with these 5 cars i put the DD2 ffb to 90% and in game lower ( every car had a different in game value) then I did the inverse and put the DD2 setting at 55% and the in game ffb setting to higher as I wanted to see if there was an actual difference.
Lets take 1 car out of the 5 for an example. The audi gt3 at imola with DD2 ffb at 90% and in game at strength 3.5/4 then I did the inverse and put the DD2 ffb at 55% and the in game strength at around 8 and there was hardly any difference at all, it actually felt slightly better having the DD2 higher and then changing in game for each car.
I then did the last test and let iRacing decide the strength with the auto function and then change the value of the DD2 ffb while in game and I had to put the DD2 ffb no higher than 40% most cases around 25% to 30%.
So I am asking this question to Marcel or Maurice or whoever actually knows what there talking about here:
Is there an actually difference if putting the DD2 at 90% then change accordingly in game? or is it more beneficial to have the DD2 around the 50%-60% and having the in game strength higher?
can someone please tell me what does the CW on the oled screen mean as it goes to CCW when i turn it, also what does the M stand for and the MPK, thanks
also while im here, I erased the motor calibration and erased the anti cogging and feel the wheel smoother and more fluid, but is it advised to have the anti cogging or can we do without it?
hello everyone, I am a proud owner of a csw 2.5 and bmw gt2 crown, someone more experienced than me can help me in setting the tuning menu to the fullest to exploit the full potential of my engine without straining it. please.
Because reading the recommended settings are quite high and reading the previous messages there is who does one thing and who another, I would very much like to be able to know the best setting or the one that comes closest to have an immersive experience, thanks I look forward to a answer
Hi there, I'm using a CSL Elite and started iRacing with the settings recommended but the MX5 seemed super light on the steering, almost no feedback unless hitting something.
I tried the 'auto' FFB button and now it's really nice, maybe even a bit too strong but I never drove this car IRL.
I don't understand why the recommended settings say not to use this option because if I'm not mistaken, if you check the box 'Use custom controls for this car', whether you tune it manually (as recommended) or automatically, the result is the same, no?
Hi Silvain, the "Auto FFB" feature only sets the FFB settings of iRacing, these have no effect on your base settings and of course can't determine what you've set at the base.
It is recommended to adjust your wheel base accordingly and based on this the FFB effects at iRacing. As iRacing doesn't see what you've set at the base (taking into account that you have at least 5 different sets of adjustments), the auto feature makes no sense.
Take a look at Fanalab and the vehicle profiles of Maurice Böschen here at the Fanalab threads. These are designed for DD bases, but usable for CSL as well. Theey include the iRacing FFB values for each vehicle, however you'll have to re-calculate the FFB strengh, as the DD's have a lot higher max torque value than the CSL. The factor remains the same for all vehicles (difference max torque DD vs. CLS). The re-calculation is described somewhere at the Fanalab profiles thread, where you'll find Maurice's profiles.
Even if you'll don't like to use Fanalab, you can take the profiles to have an indication of the FFB settings for each car available at the profiles (mainly road cars, no dirt or oval).
Hi Michael, thanks a lot for your answer and for pointing me in direction of the Fanalab profiles thread, I wasn't aware such thing exist.
I was aware that the "Auto FFB" has nothing to do with the base settings though and my base settings are done according to the recommended ones, it's only concerning the "Strength" value that I thought I could take advantage of it.
But I think I understand what you mean (sorry I'm not a native speaker), basically the auto feature cannot properly do its job because it's not aware of my hardware even if I set the wheel force first, right?
When you tell me to re-calculate the FFB strengh, it seems from the recommended settings that the base config is 6 for the DD and 8.5 for the CSL, can I just add 2.5 to the profiles of Maurice Böschen or should I do a percentage type of calculation (so more or less +40%)?
You'll have to recalculate the FFB setting based on the max peak torque of your base compared to the DD2 (or DD1, if you're going to use this set of profiles):
FFB 100 = 25 Nm for DD2, means a setting at the original profile of FFB 75 means a torque of 18.75 Nm, FFB 50 = 12,5 Nm and so on...
Your CSL Elite will not reach this high torque except setting FFB always to 100. General tip for anything different than DD bases: set the FF in the Tuning Menu to 100 and adjust in Game to what you like and to a value which is not Clipping.
This is frustrating. For the DD2, This barely managed forum suggests that LIN mode should be ONE... where Fanalab default profile for iRacing is OFF. Personally, there is a HUGE amount of road and FFB details that gets lost when it's ON (I personally like the micro-vibrations feel in my wheel). I wish there would be 1 single version of the "published" truth where default settings are maintained.
good morning after various tests and having bought the v2, with this wheel I set the settings that fanatec recommends but with fei at 70 and shock at 0, in iracing force at 8.6 I only use gt3
the only defect that I notice but maybe it is due to the csw base and that normal steering is hard perfect, it happens that sometimes I counter-steering and try to keep the steering wheel I feel the belt inside, I can't explain it better
It's not a problem. It's normal. The CSW only has 850-870 DOR. That's absolutely fine. You just have to calibrate the wheel properly, so that 90 degrees on your physical wheel match the 90 degrees in game calibration.
That doesn't work for me because then iRacing would suggest 900° which is wrong. After Calibration in iRacing i turn the wheel 180° in one direction and then manually align the wheels by adjusting the degrees in iRacing. Like this i have a full alignment across the range with 872°.
Is there a way to set a automated software lock on steering lock based on the car being driven?
what I’m trying to get at is, if I change cars in the game, and the cars’ steering lock goes from (let’s say) 360 degrees to 450 degrees, would the steering wheel’s steering lock has a soft stop when it reaches full lock?
Im using a Clubsport v2.5 with Formula v2 wheel.
Thanks
PS: And if it can be set that way, is it game specific, or can it be applied for Assetto Corsa as well?
Our CSL DD settings are updated on the first post. If you can't go lower than 25 it's because you are in the Standard Tuning Menu and you need to unlock the Advanced Tuning Menu. Please check the CSL DD Manual (in the Downloads section of the product page) for an explanation how to do this, as well as an explanation about all the different Tuning Menu settings.
Yes you should use Compatibility mode to get LEDs and Display working.
It's not up to a future firmware update to switch to PC mode - it's up to iRacing (and all other game Developers) to Patch their games with native CSL DD support.
So I tried the recommended settings for my new CSL DD yesterday. Set everything exactly as specified in Fanalabs and iRacing itself.
The only difference I had in the settings was I turned the strength down to 5 (about half the recommended).
I was driving the F3 at Red Bull Ring and it felt great in the high speed corners, but the low speed corners (especially turn 3) there was barely any force feedback and the whole thing felt really floaty.
The offending setting seems to be the Natural Damper (NDP). The default is 50% but the recommendation on this page is 15%. But, as I said, there was basically no feedback in slow corners and, while I've never driven a F3 car IRL that really can't be correct. I've put it back up to 50% and it feels fine now. But is the 15% setting a typo?
Comments
sorry mb i just replied to him in greeklish due to his name .
I now got my CSW 2.5 and i wonder if those recommended settings are still "recommendable". For example: SEN 900° doesn't work for me, because the Wheel in iRacing and the Rim do not align with each other (even after Calibration). I need to put in 865° to have full alignment across the range.
Can somebody post they (up to date) settings?
Thanks in advance!
Regards
Maurice
hello I have been iracig for a few days and I have the same problem as you! can you help me please? have you solved it somehow ?? thank you
I quit iRacing, even though I paid a year in full because of this. Never solved it. Sorry.
HI All,
I have a weird issue with my DD2 base, in any nascar car when I'm slowing down below 40 km/h theres huge bumo effect in wheel like i woudl hit something. It is happening only in nasacr cars, no issue in gt3 or any other "normal" car. Can you gyus please advise. I use recomended settings for DD2.
Good morning,
So yesterday I did some testing with various cars and same track on iRacing regarding the DD2 ffb setting and the in game ffb setting, so with these 5 cars i put the DD2 ffb to 90% and in game lower ( every car had a different in game value) then I did the inverse and put the DD2 setting at 55% and the in game ffb setting to higher as I wanted to see if there was an actual difference.
Lets take 1 car out of the 5 for an example. The audi gt3 at imola with DD2 ffb at 90% and in game at strength 3.5/4 then I did the inverse and put the DD2 ffb at 55% and the in game strength at around 8 and there was hardly any difference at all, it actually felt slightly better having the DD2 higher and then changing in game for each car.
I then did the last test and let iRacing decide the strength with the auto function and then change the value of the DD2 ffb while in game and I had to put the DD2 ffb no higher than 40% most cases around 25% to 30%.
So I am asking this question to Marcel or Maurice or whoever actually knows what there talking about here:
Is there an actually difference if putting the DD2 at 90% then change accordingly in game? or is it more beneficial to have the DD2 around the 50%-60% and having the in game strength higher?
hi again,
can someone please tell me what does the CW on the oled screen mean as it goes to CCW when i turn it, also what does the M stand for and the MPK, thanks
CW = ClockWise.
CWW = CounterClockWise
M: Current Motor Torque value
MPK = Motor Peak value of the last 10 seconds.
Thanks,
also while im here, I erased the motor calibration and erased the anti cogging and feel the wheel smoother and more fluid, but is it advised to have the anti cogging or can we do without it?
hello everyone, I am a proud owner of a csw 2.5 and bmw gt2 crown, someone more experienced than me can help me in setting the tuning menu to the fullest to exploit the full potential of my engine without straining it. please.
Because reading the recommended settings are quite high and reading the previous messages there is who does one thing and who another, I would very much like to be able to know the best setting or the one that comes closest to have an immersive experience, thanks I look forward to a answer
Hi there, I'm using a CSL Elite and started iRacing with the settings recommended but the MX5 seemed super light on the steering, almost no feedback unless hitting something.
I tried the 'auto' FFB button and now it's really nice, maybe even a bit too strong but I never drove this car IRL.
I don't understand why the recommended settings say not to use this option because if I'm not mistaken, if you check the box 'Use custom controls for this car', whether you tune it manually (as recommended) or automatically, the result is the same, no?
Hi Silvain, the "Auto FFB" feature only sets the FFB settings of iRacing, these have no effect on your base settings and of course can't determine what you've set at the base.
It is recommended to adjust your wheel base accordingly and based on this the FFB effects at iRacing. As iRacing doesn't see what you've set at the base (taking into account that you have at least 5 different sets of adjustments), the auto feature makes no sense.
Take a look at Fanalab and the vehicle profiles of Maurice Böschen here at the Fanalab threads. These are designed for DD bases, but usable for CSL as well. Theey include the iRacing FFB values for each vehicle, however you'll have to re-calculate the FFB strengh, as the DD's have a lot higher max torque value than the CSL. The factor remains the same for all vehicles (difference max torque DD vs. CLS). The re-calculation is described somewhere at the Fanalab profiles thread, where you'll find Maurice's profiles.
Even if you'll don't like to use Fanalab, you can take the profiles to have an indication of the FFB settings for each car available at the profiles (mainly road cars, no dirt or oval).
Hi Michael, thanks a lot for your answer and for pointing me in direction of the Fanalab profiles thread, I wasn't aware such thing exist.
I was aware that the "Auto FFB" has nothing to do with the base settings though and my base settings are done according to the recommended ones, it's only concerning the "Strength" value that I thought I could take advantage of it.
But I think I understand what you mean (sorry I'm not a native speaker), basically the auto feature cannot properly do its job because it's not aware of my hardware even if I set the wheel force first, right?
When you tell me to re-calculate the FFB strengh, it seems from the recommended settings that the base config is 6 for the DD and 8.5 for the CSL, can I just add 2.5 to the profiles of Maurice Böschen or should I do a percentage type of calculation (so more or less +40%)?
Thanks a lot!
You'll have to recalculate the FFB setting based on the max peak torque of your base compared to the DD2 (or DD1, if you're going to use this set of profiles):
FFB 100 = 25 Nm for DD2, means a setting at the original profile of FFB 75 means a torque of 18.75 Nm, FFB 50 = 12,5 Nm and so on...
Your CSL Elite will not reach this high torque except setting FFB always to 100. General tip for anything different than DD bases: set the FF in the Tuning Menu to 100 and adjust in Game to what you like and to a value which is not Clipping.
Alright, thanks a lot for the clarification!
This is frustrating. For the DD2, This barely managed forum suggests that LIN mode should be ONE... where Fanalab default profile for iRacing is OFF. Personally, there is a HUGE amount of road and FFB details that gets lost when it's ON (I personally like the micro-vibrations feel in my wheel). I wish there would be 1 single version of the "published" truth where default settings are maintained.
for owners of csw 2.5
good morning after various tests and having bought the v2, with this wheel I set the settings that fanatec recommends but with fei at 70 and shock at 0, in iracing force at 8.6 I only use gt3
the only defect that I notice but maybe it is due to the csw base and that normal steering is hard perfect, it happens that sometimes I counter-steering and try to keep the steering wheel I feel the belt inside, I can't explain it better
Same problem.
It's not a problem. It's normal. The CSW only has 850-870 DOR. That's absolutely fine. You just have to calibrate the wheel properly, so that 90 degrees on your physical wheel match the 90 degrees in game calibration.
Thank you, Maurice.
That doesn't work for me because then iRacing would suggest 900° which is wrong. After Calibration in iRacing i turn the wheel 180° in one direction and then manually align the wheels by adjusting the degrees in iRacing. Like this i have a full alignment across the range with 872°.
Hello guys,
Is there a way to set a automated software lock on steering lock based on the car being driven?
what I’m trying to get at is, if I change cars in the game, and the cars’ steering lock goes from (let’s say) 360 degrees to 450 degrees, would the steering wheel’s steering lock has a soft stop when it reaches full lock?
Im using a Clubsport v2.5 with Formula v2 wheel.
Thanks
PS: And if it can be set that way, is it game specific, or can it be applied for Assetto Corsa as well?
Any update recommendations for csl dd already? e.g. i cant even set ndp to 15, it only goes down to 25
Hi Kai,
Our CSL DD settings are updated on the first post. If you can't go lower than 25 it's because you are in the Standard Tuning Menu and you need to unlock the Advanced Tuning Menu. Please check the CSL DD Manual (in the Downloads section of the product page) for an explanation how to do this, as well as an explanation about all the different Tuning Menu settings.
[Fanatec Community Manager]
The csldd settings say "Compatibility Mode recommended". Does this mean that I should use CSW2.5 compatibility mode instead of PC mode for iracing?
Will it be possible to use PC mode in future firmware updates?
Yes you should use Compatibility mode to get LEDs and Display working.
It's not up to a future firmware update to switch to PC mode - it's up to iRacing (and all other game Developers) to Patch their games with native CSL DD support.
Thanks for the quick answer.
I understand that CSW compatibility mode is necessary for lighting up LEDs etc.
I also understand that the game needs to be patched to support csldd.
If I don't need the LED's, is there any problem with the PC mode?
Is there any difference in operation between PC mode and compatibility mode?
No there is no other difference
So I tried the recommended settings for my new CSL DD yesterday. Set everything exactly as specified in Fanalabs and iRacing itself.
The only difference I had in the settings was I turned the strength down to 5 (about half the recommended).
I was driving the F3 at Red Bull Ring and it felt great in the high speed corners, but the low speed corners (especially turn 3) there was barely any force feedback and the whole thing felt really floaty.
The offending setting seems to be the Natural Damper (NDP). The default is 50% but the recommendation on this page is 15%. But, as I said, there was basically no feedback in slow corners and, while I've never driven a F3 car IRL that really can't be correct. I've put it back up to 50% and it feels fine now. But is the 15% setting a typo?
No it's not a typo.
It's a recommendation in general, not good for EVERY car.
Every car needs it's own fine-Tuning and everyone likes the FFB different.
In general you want to use as low NDP as possible because high NDP kills a lot of FFB detail and you cant countersteer quickly because of it's damping