yes i' am having the double shift issue also. i also have a glitch when in contact with a kerb my wheel returns off centre but then corrects it self after i take the next corner this glitch is also present in v311 v312 v314 and now v324 i have no issue with the glitch with v293 so clearly a firmware issue
I'm also having the double shift issue. I thought it was my wheel.
Sorry guys, we are working on it with our highest effort. Be assured that it is a FW issue. We can reproduce the issue with units that are already verified to be perfect in terms of hardware functionality.
have you reproduced the glitch with the wheel centre when in contact with a kerb or shall i open a RMA on my product as i don't get the glitch with firmware v293 and most of my friends get it too
Daniel Evans said: have you reproduced the glitch with the wheel centre when in contact with a kerb or shall i open a RMA on my product as i don't get the glitch with firmware v293 and most of my friends get it too
Hi Daniel,
no reason to push for an RMA right away if you are not sure that there is a hardware issue or since that is unlikely. But there is no reason NOT to contact fanatec support if you do have an issue ;-) But if there is an issue isolate to one driver of firmware version you definitely do not need to send in the product. On the other hand you should definitely inform the Support team to make sure the software problem has been found already and that R&D is working on a solution.
I'm not getting the double shifts, but I just got my wheel last night so I'll give it time to evaluate. The rotary dials/encoders on the front came with a doubling clicking issue right from the start. For example: If I move it from position 1 to 2, it might jump to 3 in the software. This doesn't happen every time, more like 33% of the time, which is still a lot though. If it's software related, maybe you need to tweak the debouncing of those dials in the firmware to a faster rate? However, if it's hardware related, I'm really gonna start questioning Fanatec's QC process for their wheels, as this is the 4th new wheel to leave the factory with a defect (1 BMW rim, 2 McLaren rims and now this).
Funny enough, I got my Mclaren working perfectly fine on v324...the trick I think is after you've updated the wheel base and then plug in the Mclaren for the first time, it asks you (and recommends) that you update the McLaren firmware and says "click OK to proceed" or something like that. I closed that popup, but it still took me to the firmware updater. I closed that window as well and just restarted the wheelbase (CSW v2.5). Works perfectly fine after that. Side Note:
The only thing I don't like with firmware updates is that I lose all my 5 wheel settings as a result (and I forgot to document what my settings were, although I remember most of them). Does it warn you about the deletion of all settings? Maybe I was too impatient and didn't read everything lol
I was on v311 before this, so that's the Mclaren firmware that's currently on my wheel. Works just fine with the v324 drivers (and the dials seem to be locked to CONSTANT mode, which was expected since they can't infinitely rotate). So my suggestion to those with a McLaren wheel:
Flash the wheel base back to v311
Flash the Mclaren firmware to that one
Flash the wheel base to v324
DO NOT flash the Mclaren firmware when asked to and close the firmware updater window when shown
I'm not getting the double shifts, but I just got my wheel last night so I'll give it time to evaluate. The rotary dials/encoders on the front came with a doubling clicking issue right from the start. For example: If I move it from position 1 to 2, it might jump to 3 in the software. This doesn't happen every time, more like 33% of the time, which is still a lot though. If it's software related, maybe you need to tweak the debouncing of those dials in the firmware to a faster rate? However, if it's hardware related, I'm really gonna start questioning Fanatec's QC process for their wheels, as this is the 4th new wheel to leave the factory with a defect (1 BMW rim, 2 McLaren rims and now this).
Funny enough, I got my Mclaren working perfectly fine on v324...the trick I think is after you've updated the wheel base and then plug in the Mclaren for the first time, it asks you (and recommends) that you update the McLaren firmware and says "click OK to proceed" or something like that. I closed that popup, but it still took me to the firmware updater. I closed that window as well and just restarted the wheelbase (CSW v2.5). Works perfectly fine after that. Side Note:
The only thing I don't like with firmware updates is that I lose all my 5 wheel settings as a result (and I forgot to document what my settings were, although I remember most of them). Does it warn you about the deletion of all settings? Maybe I was too impatient and didn't read everything lol
I was on v311 before this, so that's the Mclaren firmware that's currently on my wheel. Works just fine with the v324 drivers (and the dials seem to be locked to CONSTANT mode, which was expected since they can't infinitely rotate). So my suggestion to those with a McLaren wheel:
Flash the wheel base back to v311
Flash the Mclaren firmware to that one
Flash the wheel base to v324
DO NOT flash the Mclaren firmware when asked to and close the firmware updater window when shown
Restart Wheel Base
seems you miss-match driver and firmware..^^ (but you are not the only one though).
The firmware for the McLaren wheel is the same (v25) in both drivers (311 and 324). There is absolutely no difference in the provided McLaren firmwares. So no need to go back to driver 311 and flash the McL firmware and then go back to driver 324 as there is, as said, no different firmware available in driver 324. You only get a newer firmware for the wheel base with driver 324. And if you get a popup to update the firmware its either just a wrong information which you can simply ignore or you are really not on the latest McLaren v25 firmware.
There is no "trick" to get the McLaren working fine with driver 324. Its just either working or not. For the majority (I think 99% as from what I have read in the forums) the McLaren is working totally fine with driver 324 anyway but it seems a few rims are not working properly so this driver was officially called to be not compatible. In 1 or 2 weeks there will be a new driver which should fix this (at least Thomas posted this in the iracing forums I believe).
As for the sometimes jumping MPS position: This is a firmware issue, no hardware issue.
I'm not getting the double shifts, but I just got my wheel last night so I'll give it time to evaluate. The rotary dials/encoders on the front came with a doubling clicking issue right from the start. For example: If I move it from position 1 to 2, it might jump to 3 in the software. This doesn't happen every time, more like 33% of the time, which is still a lot though. If it's software related, maybe you need to tweak the debouncing of those dials in the firmware to a faster rate? However, if it's hardware related, I'm really gonna start questioning Fanatec's QC process for their wheels, as this is the 4th new wheel to leave the factory with a defect (1 BMW rim, 2 McLaren rims and now this).
Funny enough, I got my Mclaren working perfectly fine on v324...the trick I think is after you've updated the wheel base and then plug in the Mclaren for the first time, it asks you (and recommends) that you update the McLaren firmware and says "click OK to proceed" or something like that. I closed that popup, but it still took me to the firmware updater. I closed that window as well and just restarted the wheelbase (CSW v2.5). Works perfectly fine after that. Side Note:
The only thing I don't like with firmware updates is that I lose all my 5 wheel settings as a result (and I forgot to document what my settings were, although I remember most of them). Does it warn you about the deletion of all settings? Maybe I was too impatient and didn't read everything lol
I was on v311 before this, so that's the Mclaren firmware that's currently on my wheel. Works just fine with the v324 drivers (and the dials seem to be locked to CONSTANT mode, which was expected since they can't infinitely rotate). So my suggestion to those with a McLaren wheel:
Flash the wheel base back to v311
Flash the Mclaren firmware to that one
Flash the wheel base to v324
DO NOT flash the Mclaren firmware when asked to and close the firmware updater window when shown
Restart Wheel Base
seems you miss-match driver and firmware..^^ (but you are not the only one though).
The firmware for the McLaren wheel is the same (v25) in both drivers (311 and 324). There is absolutely no difference in the provided McLaren firmwares. So no need to go back to driver 311 and flash the McL firmware and then go back to driver 324 as there is, as said, no different firmware available in driver 324. You only get a newer firmware for the wheel base with driver 324. And if you get a popup to update the firmware its either just a wrong information which you can simply ignore or you are really not on the latest McLaren v25 firmware.
There is no "trick" to get the McLaren working fine with driver 324. Its just either working or not. For the majority (I think 99% as from what I have read in the forums) the McLaren is working totally fine with driver 324 anyway but it seems a few rims are not working properly so this driver was officially called to be not compatible. In 1 or 2 weeks there will be a new driver which should fix this (at least Thomas posted this in the iracing forums I believe).
As for the sometimes jumping MPS position: This is a firmware issue, no hardware issue.
Just checked my McLaren to confirm: I'm on v25 firmware, I guess it's just the unlucky few that have incompatibility issues. Glad to hear the the MPS issue isn't hardware, I would have hated to have to RMA this.
Also, another suggestion for future firmware: the ability to turn the Rev LEDs off, not just for the F1 wheel, but all other Fanatec wheels with rev lights. I have the Porsche Rim, which I use for older cars and trucks (and a few modern GT cars which use a round rim), and for the older vehicles I'd prefer to not have the Rev lights on. Currently the only solution is 3rd party (FanaLEDs or SLI Max) and I'd rather keep everything "in house" so to speak.
yes but i'm also having this issue with other rims
Take off any steering wheels attached to your wheelbase. Inside the shaft of the base where the pins from the wheel connect, check to make sure the hex screws are not loose. There are 6 of them: the one in the middle (where the pins connect) uses a 2mm hex/allen key and the 5 screws around it uses a 3mm. Don't over-tighten them, just make sure they're secure.
My guess is either you have two faulty wheels (unlikely, but not impossible), the pins aren't making secure contact because of a loose screw inside the shaft, or there's an underlying firmware issue. I'm leaning more towards the loose screw, because my McLaren rim used to do double-shifts or no shifts until I tightened the hex screws on the wheel and the base. I also use the fastening bolt as a precaution (only with the McLaren), so maybe that helped as well. Now that I have the F1 rim, I'll stop using the fastening bolt to see if it helped or not.
yes but i'm also having this issue with other rims
Take off any steering wheels attached to your wheelbase. Inside the shaft of the base where the pins from the wheel connect, check to make sure the hex screws are not loose. There are 6 of them: the one in the middle (where the pins connect) uses a 2mm hex/allen key and the 5 screws around it uses a 3mm. Don't over-tighten them, just make sure they're secure.
My guess is either you have two faulty wheels (unlikely, but not impossible), the pins aren't making secure contact because of a loose screw inside the shaft, or there's an underlying firmware issue. I'm leaning more towards the loose screw, because my McLaren rim used to do double-shifts or no shifts until I tightened the hex screws on the wheel and the base. I also use the fastening bolt as a precaution (only with the McLaren), so maybe that helped as well. Now that I have the F1 rim, I'll stop using the fastening bolt to see if it helped
Hi Brandon
Fanatec have already confirmed its an firmware issue with the double shifts. Hopefully all will be resolved when latest firmware update is released
Attached to this post you can find a new Firmware for the ClubSport Steering Wheel F1® 2018. This Firmware is experimental and especially there to solve the issue of missing button inputs. Please give us feedback if this issue isn't solved for you or you come across other issues. This or an evolved version from it will end up in the next driver package so we need as much feedback as possible, thank you in advance!
Changelog:
- Fixed missing paddle shifter inputs
- Fixed missing button inputs
Instructions:
1. You have to have driver 324 installed already and flashed your Wheel Base firmware (do it without the steering wheel attached if you haven't done the firmware upate of the Base already)
2. Go to the "Update" tab in the driver UI and select "Update Steering Wheel Firmware"
3. Hit "Yes" if you get asked for it, the Firmware Updater Window will appear
4. Connect
5. Click on the three dots to manually select the file: "RFORMv2_V21_rev67_app.hex" that was contained in the .zip attached here
6. "Flash Firmware" and wait for the process to be finished
7. The Wheel Base will boot up again, you can close the "Firmware Updater" window and start driving, have fun.
Thank you very much to deliver such quick feedback to us. It looks like we might have to re-build the updater software within a complete driver package (which we wanted to avoid) to get you the latest firmware onto your F1 2018. Please stay tuned!
Attached to this post you can find a new Firmware for the ClubSport Steering Wheel F1® 2018. This Firmware is experimental and especially there to solve the issue of missing button inputs. Please give us feedback if this issue isn't solved for you or you come across other issues. This or an evolved version from it will end up in the next driver package so we need as much feedback as possible, thank you in advance!
Changelog:
- Fixed missing paddle shifter inputs
- Fixed missing button inputs
Instructions:
1. You have to have driver 324 installed already and flashed your Wheel Base firmware (do it without the steering wheel attached if you haven't done the firmware upate of the Base already)
2. Go to the "Update" tab in the driver UI and select "Update Steering Wheel Firmware"
3. Hit "Yes" if you get asked for it, the Firmware Updater Window will appear
4. Connect
5. Click on the three dots to manually select the file: "RFORMv2_V21_rev67_app.hex" that was contained in the .zip attached here
6. "Flash Firmware" and wait for the process to be finished
7. The Wheel Base will boot up again, you can close the "Firmware Updater" window and start driving, have fun.
File deleted because of updating issues
What about the centre calibration when in contact with a kerb on f12018 ps4 this glitch has been there since firmware v311 and still hasn't been resolved in the latest updates.
I have contact technical assistance and the assured me it would be resolved in the latest firmware update so basically my limited edition wheel is totally useless until this is resolved. I have to use v293 to not suffer from this issue. Can you give any sort of time scale of when this will be resolved please
Will the beta driver/firmware package be available this week do you think?
Lets hope so, i am getting some weird stuff in Iracing, downshift not register every time and when I turn wheel 90 degrees left the blackbox changes page (BB mapped to left/right D-pad, right stick). V2.5 + F1 18 SE
Comments
But if there is an issue isolate to one driver of firmware version you definitely do not need to send in the product. On the other hand you should definitely inform the Support team to make sure the software problem has been found already and that R&D is working on a solution.
Just to tell that if the "emulate mouse" is activated in my F1 2018 wheel the button 6 does not work.
Updated to the latest driver for the wheel.