I thought about overheating as well, and tried pointing a fan directly at the side of my wheel base to get some additional airflow - it didn't make a difference.
It seems strange that some people are impacted and other's aren't. I wonder if there have been incremental hardware revisions, and depending on production date, maybe the new firmware versions cause issues with only certain CSW 2.5's?
Regardless, it seems like something that can be resolved with software. I really don't want to have to mail my wheel base back to Fanatec, but I really don't want to have to mail my wheel base back to do so.
Marcel - please let us know if there is any REAL data that we can provide.
Is there anything we can do to help troubleshoot the gear/notch feeling? Are any logs created by your software that we can share? Is there a debug mode that we can turn on in a config file somewhere to provide real data instead of anecdotal evidence?
We've all invested a lot of money in your products, I just received my F1 2019 rim yesterday. It's beautiful, but makes the issue even more pronounced due to being smaller and lighter than the ClubSport GT Forza wheel and UHX I've been using - and it is really hurting the experience.
Drive with different settings and see if it makes a difference, drift mode high, low or off and FEI 0, 50, 100
When I navigate through the OLED screens of the wheel base the button press of the FunkySwitch is always also recognized by the game. That's pretty annoying.
I already had the same with driver 334 and 335 and also with my Formula Carbon wheel, so it's no new behavior
Edit:
Another thing is, that sometimes when I turn on my wheel base it seems to freeze. It then stucks at one of the starting screens and doesn't do anything anymore. Regardless which button I press, nothing happens.
And in this situation I'm also not able to turn off the wheel base anymore. It then only turns off when I press the E-Stop on the kill switch. My DD2 shows this behavior sometimes since I have the F1 2019 wheel. With the Formula Carbon I never had this. I have the feeling, this only happens when the wheel base was turned of for a couple of time.
It also shows sometime the message "ATTENTION Enable torque?", sometimes "CAUTION Torque Key Inserted! Please read the manuals safety guidelines before use." and sometimes a blank screen. When it shows the "CAUTION Torque Key Inserted..." message I have do acknowledge only this message. When it shows "ATTENTION Enable torque?" I have to acknowledge this message first and after that I get the "CAUTION Torque Key Inserted..." message and I have to acknowledge this message, too. I'm not sure, but I think this is also since I have the F1 2019 wheel attached.
Why are you using the funky switch button press in the tuning menu in the first place? It has no special function, you only need left right, up down / turn.
I've took note of your Issue described in the Edit.
Not a specific problem with this beta firmware but since we are discussing the LED shift lights I thought I would ask the question. Why do the LEDs work in ACC on all the Fanatec wheelbases except for the CSL Elite wheelbase? In addition, The LED shift lights work on most other sims that I have tried eg Raceroom. What is different in the Fanatec SDK for the CSL Elite that makes Kunos unable to get them working?
I'll take a look but normally the CSL Elite bas copies the LEDs from the steering wheel if the game doesn't address them specifically. Could be an issue of the game if it addresses them with nothing.
After i install driver 336 at CSL elite PS4 to my pc, the fan is not stoping. I tried to downgrade but the issue is still there. After 10-15 minutes i have to shut down the base so the fan stops.
When I navigate through the OLED screens of the wheel base the button press of the FunkySwitch is always also recognized by the game. That's pretty annoying.
I already had the same with driver 334 and 335 and also with my Formula Carbon wheel, so it's no new behavior
Edit:
Another thing is, that sometimes when I turn on my wheel base it seems to freeze. It then stucks at one of the starting screens and doesn't do anything anymore. Regardless which button I press, nothing happens.
And in this situation I'm also not able to turn off the wheel base anymore. It then only turns off when I press the E-Stop on the kill switch. My DD2 shows this behavior sometimes since I have the F1 2019 wheel. With the Formula Carbon I never had this. I have the feeling, this only happens when the wheel base was turned of for a couple of time.
It also shows sometime the message "ATTENTION Enable torque?", sometimes "CAUTION Torque Key Inserted! Please read the manuals safety guidelines before use." and sometimes a blank screen. When it shows the "CAUTION Torque Key Inserted..." message I have do acknowledge only this message. When it shows "ATTENTION Enable torque?" I have to acknowledge this message first and after that I get the "CAUTION Torque Key Inserted..." message and I have to acknowledge this message, too. I'm not sure, but I think this is also since I have the F1 2019 wheel attached.
Why are you using the funky switch button press in the tuning menu in the first place? It has no special function, you only need left right, up down / turn.
I've took note of your Issue described in the Edit.
I meant left/right/up/down and not pressing the funky switch. Left/right/upd/down is always recognized by the game, when I navigate trough the OLED screens, too.
After i install driver 336 at CSL elite PS4 to my pc, the fan is not stoping. I tried to downgrade but the issue is still there. After 10-15 minutes i have to shut down the base so the fan stops.
Any solution to that?
I hear it for the first time, let me know if it happens again and then list all firmware version as well because driver 336 is not telling me much because you can theoretically have multiple different firmware combinations while having 336 installed
I hear it for the first time, let me know if it happens again and then list all firmware version as well because driver 336 is not telling me much because you can theoretically have multiple different firmware combinations while having 336 installed
Wheel Base Model: CSL elite PS4
Steering Wheel Model : Mclaren
Driver Version: 336
Base FW Version: 656
Wheel FW Version: 30
It does it all the times. When the fan starts while racing, it stays on after closing the game until i power off the base.
And now i found out tha the rev lights are working backwards after DIRT 2.0 update. At Fanatec control panel they working ok, inside the game are working backwards.
Is there anything we can do to help troubleshoot the gear/notch feeling?
Hi Doug, hi Akeem and Antonio,
please go back version by version in terms of FW. I would always use 100% default settings to narrow down the issue (WHILE comparing FWs). Please let us know which version suddenly cures the issue again if it came up with an update as reported. That should help us finding the root cause. On the other hand, it does also help a lot to have a manual how to reproduce an issues reliable the quickest way and showing up in its purest form.
THX!
I hear it for the first time, let me know if it happens again and then list all firmware version as well because driver 336 is not telling me much because you can theoretically have multiple different firmware combinations while having 336 installed
Wheel Base Model: CSL elite PS4
Steering Wheel Model : Mclaren
Driver Version: 336
Base FW Version: 656
Wheel FW Version: 30
It does it all the times. When the fan starts while racing, it stays on after closing the game until i power off the base.
And now i found out tha the rev lights are working backwards after DIRT 2.0 update. At Fanatec control panel they working ok, inside the game are working backwards.
What happens when you go back to driver 328 or 311 and downgrade all firmware version? Would be good to have a list of firmware versions and where the issue happens to nail it down.
Attached are two zip files, one for the motor firmware and one for the base firmware. Don't use Formula V2 or McLarenf or this testing because the older firmware versions included don't support them.
Testing the motor firmware
1. Install Base Firmware 651 and try both V18 and V22 for Motor Firmware to see if that makes a difference
2. Install Base Firmware 474 and try both V18 and V22 for motor Firmware to see if that makes a difference
3. Post an overview with which of those 4 possible combinations the issue appeared.
Testing the base firmware (This way you need to try less than half of the versions)
1. Test highest (651) and lowest version (474)
2. If it happens only with the highest, try the middle one (577)
3. If 577 has the notching issue too, try the middle of the lower half (523)
If 577 is good, try the middle of the upper half (628)
4. Go on with this procedure to nail down with which firmware the issue started
PS4 DD1 racing wheel, driver version 336, and latest base fw and F1 V2 fw out of this driver.
I was feeling this already with previous firmware versions, but I just couldn't point out WHAT exactly felt of to my usual driving. But last night it just hit me. I was used to race with BRF set to 100 for most cars, and some with less.
The manual says this: BRF range: OFF 010 … 100 BRF default: 050 BRF allows to adjust the brake feeling: Increasing BRF to 100 means the user needs to press the brake with minimum force to achieve 100% brake signal. Reducing BRF to OFF means the user needs to press the brake only with maximum force to achieve 100% brake signal. You can either check the brake signal level on the PC driver or you can see it on the attached steering wheel (depending on steering wheel type).
But at the moment, the 100 setting, feels as it's set to OFF. I drove a couple of GT3 race cars in AC with BRF set to 35 and it felt GREAT. So to me it was a change for the better... But it either needs to be updated in the manuals, or set back to how it was in the early versions of fw. I'm PRO new style
I was feeling this already with previous firmware versions, but I just couldn't point out WHAT exactly felt of to my usual driving. But last night it just hit me. I was used to race with BRF set to 100 for most cars, and some with less.
The manual says this: BRF range: OFF 010 … 100 BRF default: 050 BRF allows to adjust the brake feeling: Increasing BRF to 100 means the user needs to press the brake with minimum force to achieve 100% brake signal. Reducing BRF to OFF means the user needs to press the brake only with maximum force to achieve 100% brake signal. You can either check the brake signal level on the PC driver or you can see it on the attached steering wheel (depending on steering wheel type).
But at the moment, the 100 setting, feels as it's set to OFF. I drove a couple of GT3 race cars in AC with BRF set to 35 and it felt GREAT. So to me it was a change for the better... But it either needs to be updated in the manuals, or set back to how it was in the early versions of fw. I'm PRO new style
The manual is outdated as BRF behavior was reversed some firmware versions ago so 100/High now means you have to press the brake pedal very hard to achieve 100% brake input and Low now means you have to press the brake pedal with minimum force to achieve 100% brake input. What was Brf 35 a few firmwares ago is now Brf 65.
Attached are two zip files, one for the motor firmware and one for the base firmware. Don't use Formula V2 or McLarenf or this testing because the older firmware versions included don't support them.
Testing the motor firmware
1. Install Base Firmware 651 and try both V18 and V22 for Motor Firmware to see if that makes a difference
2. Install Base Firmware 474 and try both V18 and V22 for motor Firmware to see if that makes a difference
3. Post an overview with which of those 4 possible combinations the issue appeared.
Testing the base firmware (This way you need to try less than half of the versions)
1. Test highest (651) and lowest version (474)
2. If it happens only with the highest, try the middle one (577)
3. If 577 has the notching issue too, try the middle of the lower half (523)
If 577 is good, try the middle of the upper half (628)
4. Go on with this procedure to nail down with which firmware the issue started
thank you so much; i'll give it a try as soon as possible
Yes, thanks Marcel! I’ll work on testing over the next few days and follow up with everyone. Will do my best to document the results and will upload some kind of testing output document once complete.
Thank you for your help, very much appreciated, looking forward to what you find out and hopefully fix the issue very soon. It's already a high priority task for our developer but precise feedback will help him a lot.
Attached are two zip files, one for the motor firmware and one for the base firmware. Don't use Formula V2 or McLarenf or this testing because the older firmware versions included don't support them.
Testing the motor firmware
1. Install Base Firmware 651 and try both V18 and V22 for Motor Firmware to see if that makes a difference
2. Install Base Firmware 474 and try both V18 and V22 for motor Firmware to see if that makes a difference
3. Post an overview with which of those 4 possible combinations the issue appeared.
Testing the base firmware (This way you need to try less than half of the versions)
1. Test highest (651) and lowest version (474)
2. If it happens only with the highest, try the middle one (577)
3. If 577 has the notching issue too, try the middle of the lower half (523)
If 577 is good, try the middle of the upper half (628)
4. Go on with this procedure to nail down with which firmware the issue started
i'm on with tests...only one question: is the latest wb firmware 656? or 651 as you said before
656 is the most recent, it's part of the driver 336
474 is the oldest in the package I've uploaded and is the one of the driver 311
ok thx. first test session:
FW Base fw motor fw sw: ac & acc
311 474 18
336 474 18
336 651 18
336 651 22
336 656 22
after all this tests and after reverting firmware at 311_474_18 i didn't feel anything, just like by magic.:o Same thing with all written combinations.
Now i will try with different software and i'll see what happen.
Otherwise the first time I noticed this defect was with the use of the settings of jack spades on project cars 2. I'll try it out and keep you updated
at the game launch the wheel makes a new check (like when i start the wheel base) but much much more violent. after that here we are: welcome notchy feel.
I tried the same thing but with the 651 wb fw and nothing happen. I belive that this issue happens every time the engine has a peak of power, just like it happened to me with the motorsport force check and, in fact, with the settings of jack spades in project cars 2.
As far as I'm concerned, in all tests that i made in last two hours the problem is in the motor firmware.
Every time i run with the motor firmware 22 i gain in silence but i lost smoothness and welcome notchy feel as well, after some peak of power. So for me now the sweet spot is:
Antonio, I haven't been able to start testing yet. I'll try what you've listed in your last post when I get home from work and see if the issue goes away.
When you say you gain silence - do you mean that coil whine went away? It was something I noticed with lower versions that went away pretty recently. I'd much rather some coil whine than the notchy feeling!
Antonio, I haven't been able to start testing yet. I'll try what you've listed in your last post when I get home from work and see if the issue goes away.
When you say you gain silence - do you mean that coil whine went away? It was something I noticed with lower versions that went away pretty recently. I'd much rather some coil whine than the notchy feeling!
yes, i mean exactly that coil whine, that as far as i know, is solved only by the motor firmware update 22
As far as I'm concerned, in all tests that i made in last two hours the problem is in the motor firmware.
Every time i run with the motor firmware 22 i gain in silence but i lost smoothness and welcome notchy feel as well, after some peak of power. So for me now the sweet spot is:
Driver 336
Wheel base fw: 656
Motor fw: 18
I hope this can help you to solve this issue.
Hi all. I am reading all your comments on this problem. Now this notch sensation is also felt in the CSL Elite PS4 bases that I own. It is known that these 2 bases carry the same components. According to what Antonio says, the problem is in the engine where CSW 2.5 and Csl ps4 use the same fw v22.
My question is: should we go down to fw v18 to solve this problem?
Hi all. I am reading all your comments on this problem. Now this notch sensation is also felt in the CSL Elite PS4 bases that I own. It is known that these 2 bases carry the same components. According to what Antonio says, the problem is in the engine where CSW 2.5 and Csl ps4 use the same fw v22.
My question is: should we go down to fw v18 to solve this problem?
downgrading to motor fw 18 for me can be a workaround. i drive since 1 hour and absolutely smooth feel, but you have to deal with some annoying coil whine; at least for those who have csw 2.5. On csl elite i don't know
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